No Longer a Virgin !!

Friday 28th May 2010

although it was cloudy and drizzly, I set off around lunchtime for my first big test on the Via Ferrata's of France...

I headed for the nearest one to me, through Eaux Bannes

http://www.gourette.com/ete/eng/index.php

up in the hills, http://www.pyrenees-pireneus.com/via_ferrata_de_gourette.htm

which was graded higher than I would wish to do my first one on, but what the heck, I could always shout for help !!

As I got to the route,thanks to Wally and TomTom...I went initially to have a look...it was rainy/drizzly, and the wood which I had to walk through was pretty depressing...I got down to the start of the route, already soaking wet,and as I looked thought 'Wow' wonder whether I can do it ??

so went back to Wally for a chat , and settle my nerves...

Eventually thought, well it's gotta be done, and for safety, put my phone in my pack ! Put all the gear on, and went down to the start...

The route started by 2 wire cables traversing over a raging torrent below..which I eventually convinced myself would be OK to do (and return if failed!),..that was just the gentle start, I then had to traverse along a rock cliff, over the raging stream/river below, and then over several Himalayan (3 strand) and 2 strand wire/rope bridges, until the route climbed the cliff directly above me...phew this was real climbing territory, although I convinced myself I was perfectly safe, and could do it !!

Up and up I went, past the first 'escape' section, undeterred I continued climbing, with an occasional breather,and photograph...but conditions remained wet and slippy, so I couldn't take many pics...

Eventually I came to a choice...the difficult route, or really dificult route (up and over a bluff)

I decided on the difficult route, and continued upwards to the finish on the cliffs at the top, looking down over the valley...fantastic, although wet and tired,it had only taken 1 1/2 hours, but felt like a lot longer,and harder !!

I walked back to Wally, thanking my lucky stars,I had broken my Ferrata duck...with a bookful to try before I head home !!

Then to Pau to write of my exploits before back to the campsite...and hope the 'shaking'stops soon !!

Happy Days...

The Excitement's building !!

Thursday 27th May 2010 After a leisurely start to the day, I decided to go to Tarbes,where I had seen an advertisement for a Deacathlon store, intending to purchase some 'Via Ferrata equipment...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Via_ferrata which I would need as I intended doing some whilst I was away.. Arriving at the store I found some equipment which I thought would do the job, which although expensive,seemed to be what I needed..http://www.mammut.ch/en/viaferrata_explanation.html and so, the purchase was made !! A fill up of Wally with grub, and back to the camsite for a leisurely lunch, and afternoon. In the early evening I rode into Lourdes http://www.lourdes-france.org/index.php?contexte=en&id=405 had a quick look round, and decided to come back over the weekend...if I survived my first 'Via Ferrata' !!

Up and over...

Wednesday 26th May 2010

Up bright and early at Casa Thomas...

Phil made breakfast, and after declining his kind offer of a further night I hit the road,travelling through Bilbao,and then up into the hills on a tortuous route through the mountains towards France -- where Jim had told me the climbing would be better, and I agreed..

the constntly changing scenery was brilliant, so many different sights, one amazing area was as I travelled through Aragon, the road wended its was alongside a turqoise blue lake, which seemed to have flooded everywhere, and amazing hills, very similiar to the 'Badlands' I had seen in Canada last year.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aragon so much to see, and no idea what everything was!

My final town in Spain was Jaca http://jaca.costasur.com/en/index.html which looked like a 'garrison town' and was amazingly 'chiq', although i didn't stop...too much to do !

Eventually I drove through the Somport tunnel. and popped out the other side into France !! I may finally be able to understand what people are saying, and may be able to answer back !I headed for Pau, and then continued to my camsite which was about 5 miles from Lourdes.. http://www.camping-lepratdourey.com/ I arrived around 8-30 p.m., during a rather heavy thunderstorm,and the reception was closed - although they did open up for me, and I settled for the night !! tired to say the least..

Fooled you all...!!

Tuesday 25th May 2010 (2)

Just as I was leaving Turieno, I had contact from an old colleague - Phil Thomas, or as the Spanish call him.... Felipe..inviting me to stay at his home in Liergenes, near Santander, which I would be passing anyway..

I decided to accept the kind offer, and inflict myself upon him..and left Pamplona for another time !

and so early afternoon I arrived in Liergenes, where Phil met me, and took me to his home, his wife Pam, also an old collegaue had 'fled' the country ! (joking) although she was back in the UK.

A great day was had, with the prospect of a real bed, my own bathroom, and the prospects of a hot bath...luxury..

We chatted about old times, and went up into the nearby hills, visiting an old 'Kings counting house' used during the building of the Spanish Armada, when all the surrounding forests were cut down, to be used in building the ships, and forging the cannon to be used in them...the counting house was where the foresters were paid.

In the early evening, Phil made a curry dinner..whilst I had a luxurious bath...heaven, this is what you miss on campsites...

then friends of his Jim and Murdina McColl arrived to share with me some ideas of where to go next ..in the Pyrenees - thanks everyone for the food,company...and ideas.

A night spent in a real bed followed...wonderful

On the Move again !!

Tuesday 25th May 2010 5 weeks of being on the move,away from home !! I'm leaving the Picos de Europa, heading for the Pyrenees, somewhere North of Pamplona to start with... http://www.pamplona.net/verPagina.asp?idPag=1&idioma=5 in fact I may stop nearby, and have a look around, so until I'm back on 'net ....Adios !

Lance Armstrong - eat your heart out !!

Monday 24th May 2010

I was up for 7 a.m.,although lay in till in 8 a.m....

I had decided to cycle to Fuente De again...

two reasons

1) to see if I could do the tortous ride again

2)to check if the campsite was open yet ! -if it was I would move there..

At 9 a.m. I set off on the Road towards Fuente De, it was already quite warm, although there were occasional clouds scooting across the sky,giving me a break !

Immediately the climb was tough, but as I passed through the village of La Iscelles, I knew I had cracked it, I had got over the biggest hill, but still had some way to go, but I knew it was going to be OK...

11 a.m. saw me swooping into Fuente De..2 hours, 2 stops, 2 ceral bars,1 Litre of water !!

I had another ice cream, rested, checked the campsite- still closed !

Then set offf for my return journey...I swooped down the mountain roads, it was fantastic...nothing overtook me (almost) I took the bends like an Olympic rider, I had the Roads to myself, and cut all corners, and bends,brilliant..arriving back at the Campsite in less than thirty minutes !!

Average speed 27.4 MPH, Time 27-06 mins,Max speed 44.4 mph,12.37 miles

Rest, and back to the washing....

Plans for my next move...

Sunday 23rd May 2010 Another bright day dawned, I finished my book, then realised I was a bit late for Church, and so had the bright (!) idea of riding there on my bike... uphill...and hot sunshine... by the time I arrived at mass, just in time, I was like a wet rag....soaking and dripping on everyone around me !! although it had it's benefits as I whizzed back to the campsite, and an easy afternoon, working out my next moves... 4 a.m. I realised it was getting chilly again...it had gone down to 22C ! and I could feel it !! sweet dreams ( and many of them !) Q Why do I think of David and Sian each morning ?? A ???? Prize for anyone who guesses correctly !

The Full Tour

Saturday 22nd May 2010

As I was up early ! I soon had Wally packed and ready for the road..

I paid my dues ( having to explain how to add up correctly !) and set up intending to stay at Canga de Onis http://www.cangasdeonis.com/

so that I could visit the nearby area of Covadonga, and it's lakes http://www.picoseuropa.net/lagos/index.php

Unfortunately when I got there, I found it's only campsite closed !

I did drive through the town of Canga,it looked busy, and exciting...but nowhere for me to stop !

Soon was explained, as I was on the road, looking for another campsite,a massive cycle race passed, more competitors than the Tour de France !,although not many mechanics following...it went on,on and on...with the groups getting slower as time (and no doubt fitness) passed ..

The best I could make out was that it was the 'Covadonga Race 2010' which obviously did a circuit of some of the National Park,. but exactly where was hard to find out..if I'd known earlier I could have joined in, and had some fun!

I then tanked up Wally (for the first time in Spain!) and hit the Road...

thinking I would drive towards Riana, through another spectacular, and twisting road along the River Rio gorge...which went on for miles - just glad it was a Saturday,hot...and hardly anyone on the Road!

As I reached Riana, and stull no sight of a campsite which was open, I headed over the Puerto San Gloria pass, towards my original starting point of Potes !http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_de_San_Glorio

Along the road me and Wally wended our way, glorious country, sunshine..and clear roads, up and over the top - where I had my highest ever ice lolly ! - courtesy of the onboard fidge/freezer (luxury) at 1609 mts,then we wended our way down the pass, towards Potes,and finally back to the campsite at Potes....and t'internet !!

A glorious drive, which had allowed me views of the entire Picos de Europa National Park ..a great journey !

Early to Bed...

Friday 21st May 2010 Had a lie in.. Read a book http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Girl_with_the_Dragon_Tattoo Did the washing Nice relaxing day, early to bed..... woke up at 1-50 a.m. by a group of Spanish who had obviosly come in a coach for a week/weeken, and were staying at the nearby lodges - not bothering about who they were disturbing -- me ! eventually got back to sleep after 2 hours, and promptly woken up at 7 a.m. by then up and about !! Time to go !

To the Foot of Naranjo de Bulnes

Thursday 20th May 2010

Another great day in prospect, early alarm call for 0700, up bright and early, and the sun already seemed hot overhead...may be a warm one today..

Drove to Poncebos, then turned onto a narrower track up towards Sotres, an old mountain village, and turned down an old rough track just short of the village, heading for a place called Pandebano (which I couldn't find on my map) intending to do a route up from there, along the Uriellu valley, to the Refuge Uriellu, at the base of the Picos most famous mountain...Naranjo de Bulnes. http://www.vivirasturias.com/asturias/cabrales/pandebano---vega-de-urriello---pandebano/es it may be classed as a 'walking route' but you'll find out (as usual) it was anything but !

As the track came to a sign saying...'agricultural traffic only,rural route' I thought I'd best park Wally on a roadside verge, near a collection of dilapidated buildings, presuming this must be Pandebano...

I set off up the rough track, which immediately climbed up a set of zig zags, higher and higher, and I knew I was in for a rough/tough day ahead, within minutes I was soaked to the skin from perspiration, and it was still just 10 a.m. !

After 40 minutes of steep climbing, several cars passed me - whoops I thought, maybe I could have brought Wally up here, although the track was fairly rough, and she's a tender old girl, who likes being pampered ! Around 50 minutes after i set off, and having climbed about 250 mts in the morning hot sun, I came upon the place where people obviously park..ah well, I'll just have to add it on to the route.

Leaving the rough track I set off across the plains of the Tenerosa, quickly catching and overtaking the only other people already on the track.. the gradient eased slightly and the views opened up both across the plain, and down the valley towards the village of Bulnes ,http://www.el-caminoreal.com/cabrales/funicular.htm, an interesting hill village.

I settled into a good pleasant pace across the plains, and around the hillside on my ever upward journey.. As i got to the top of the pass,the views opened up for me towards the distant objective,which seemed to be surrounded by an awful lot of snow - I was well prepared, shorts and summer boots,no gaiters, altgough I had my two walking poles which I would need !

As I was drinking in the view,looking forward to crossing the distant snow patches, a couple of spaniards caught me up, saying something like ' It's too snowy from here, dangerous, we should turn round' Not Likely, it looked great...so thanking them off I went, up the hillside and towards the snow line..

As initially I just had to cross banked snow across the track, I wondered what the bloke had been worrie d about, but as I turned the corner, I looked above to see a vast expanse of snow surrounding the mountain, and my objective...

Onward and upward I carried on, as the snow got deeper, and deeper, and softer, the track had dissapeared beneath the snow, although I could generally follow it because of the paint flashes on the rock.

I trudged ever upwards, no one seeming to have come this way during the season, which I couldn't beleive, there must just have been fresh snow, and I was having to make the trail ( again!)

The sun by now was overhead, and beating down on me, reflecting back off the snow, and was very hot..

Eventually, having to work out which way round the mountain I needed to go, I found the Uriellu Refuge at 1960 mts, it was 1-40 p.m. by then..the key was in the door, and no one around !

As I sat and took a breather, I was able to wring out my socks and boots, lay out my shirt to dry, and have a well earned rest and refreshment !

I had the place to myself, apart from some birds seeking the crumbs..until around 2 p.m. when a young couple surfaced having followed my great trail!

and eventually another 5 people..all grateful for my trail - at least I think that's what they said !

At 2-30p.m. whilst the wine was being poured in the refuge, I set off for my return journey, back down the same trail (although I had some diversions)

and back to Wally for 5-50 p.m. ! Exhausted to say the least...

A great day had been had, 1200 mts of climbing, 7 hours and great fun !

As I was getting changed, a Spanish chap came sadly down the road,looking pretty fed up - until I offerred him a lift down to Poncebos, which he took with Relish, even though I refused his offer of a drink in the Tavern. as the roads were a bit scary to drive down after drinking !!

I celebrated with a meal at the nearby bar that night, and slept soundly !!

A gentle ride ...

Wednesday 19th May

I'd decided to reward myself after the hot day I had before,and so lay in bed, waking around 8 a.m., and lay there watching the sun burn the clouds off the nearby hill tops...

it's a tough life but someone's gotta do it !

I thought the day would dissapear with me doing lots of nothing,

until late afternoon when I decided I would find a gentle road to ride along, and look at the local scenery !!

As I've said before, there's no such thing as gentle road in Spain - not in the mountains anyway... I set off from the campsite,through the village of Arenas de Cabrales, along the main road, which steadily climbed into the distance, passing a 'Picturepoint' where in the distance could be seen the imposing sight of Naranjo de Bulnes, one of the famed sights of the Picos (and one which I intended seeing at close quarters)up and up went the road, then started winding back on itself...always a sign of never ending steep hills...not to be dissapointed I carried on, ever upwards, until an hour late, and still the road climbed....

enough I decided, turned round and took the swift (very swift) ride back to the campsite !!

I spent the rest of the day sorting out which walks I was doing in the area !

Cain....and back Again !

Tuesday 18th May 201

Up and about very early (well,early for me, anyway !)

around 7 a.m. packed wally ready for the Road, did sandwiches and food for a long day, and set off to do the 'Spectacular' Cares Gorge route, http://www.walkingeurope.info/walks/walks/walk_descrip/6110/

a pretty gentle,undemanding walk, although I intended to do it twice ! -there...to Cain, and back again.

I decided after the days before parking problems to park just short of PuertoPoncebos at the car park for the Funicular to Bulnes, where I had seen a reasonable size car park, and by going early thought I would be able to park fairly easily.

I wasn't wrong, there was only another car on the car park,and so picking my spot for an easy esacpe,when it was cluttered later I set off around 9-20 a.m...what a time to start,but already the sun was hot and beating down.

As I set off on the trail I could see in the distance a lonely figure ahead,although that person headed off away from the trail after a short time.

I was that early that I seemed to be the only person, walking along the trail that followed the gorge from Poncebos, all the way to Cain, above the River Cares,and alongside a man made canal, which takes water through the mountains alongside.

Looking ahead was a great sight, hot sun, steep ravine either side, and all the time accompanied by the sound of the water in the River below..

I kept going and going, the sun was higher and higher in the sky it felt really warm, as the Sun had finally started putting in an appearrance in the Picos !

It's hard to describe the sights I saw that day, just all along as you walked ,after the initial climb out of Poncebos, it was a relatively gentle undulating walk, with the Ravines and mountains above you on either side, and because I had set out early, no signsor sounds of anyone - Great !

Just as I was almost in Cain, around 12-30 p.m. I started to meet a few people, who were obviously just setting out to walk to Poncebos, where I had come from.

Arriving in Cain http://www.bugbog.com/walking_tours/spain.html

it was a pleasant little hill village, which obviously thrived on providing meals for the no doubt hordes of tourists, who arrive during the summer months walking the gorge--

not this pensioner though, I'd done my butties, and found a shady place to stop and eat ( and cool down) I did treat myself to an 'Exotic'ice lolly though, before setting off on the return route...

As you can imagine , by then the Sun was well up in the sky, mad dogs and englismen were the only ones out in the middaysun ! although I didn't see many mad dogs, plenty of idle ones lying about in the shade though..

As I was in Cain, and leaving for my return journey I was going against what seemed like a 'tide' of humanity, as loads of people appearred from the Gorge, obviously intent on a lazy lunch...

I travelled back along the trail, seeing an entirely different view of the Gorge,whilst the Sun pounded down on my head - by this time the Foreign legion sun cap had well and truly been called into service.

After a short time I once again had the trail to myself, and apart from the heat had a rather unremarkable journey back to Poncebos...apart from cracking my head on a low rock tunnel through the mountain, leaving me seeing more stars than I had whilst already in Spain !!

Arriving back at Poncebos around 4 p.m. I was well pleased with myself..those left lunching in Cain would not be back for many hours yet !

Poncebos was littered with cars, but I found Wally ready to take me home, having selected my site well !

I drove back to Arenas..so early even the Supermarket hadn't opened for the evening, but I return later for some BBQ Items !

I treated myself to a BBQ, loads of cold beer, and a wonderful shower,

a great day, hard to describe.

Stuck at the Top -- what to do ??

Monday 17th May 2010 I was up bright and early today, packed Wally for the road, and off we set... back along the windy and doubling back road of the Hermida gorge..http://travel.viamichelin.com/web/Destination/Spain/Tourist_Site-Desfiladero_de_la_Hermida-_ and through other more gentle roads, to Arenas de Cabrales where I intended to base myself for the next few days http://www.asturiasguide.com/Arena-de-Cabrales.html As I got there early in the day I decided to drive up into the hills, and work out where I should go for some of my intended routes... Puerto Poncebos was my original destination, and through the small village, towards the start of the Carres Gorge...a 'spectacular 'walk, and one I would definitely be doing in the week.. I drove up the road, which turned into a track, and got rougher and rougher,then suddenly finished in a dead end, where the Spanish tourists had parked tightly on either side of the road, and in the 'turning space' that I couldn't turn round ! OOOOps Wally was stuck, I tried several times to turn in what limited space there was, even at one stage enlisting the help of a bemused Spanish chap,who did his best to help,but it was impossible...what to do ? I decided the only was was to Reverese the entire length of rough track, about 150 mts, between tightly parked cars, and round several twists and turns !-- But, just as i started the plan, help was at hand -- the Spaniard who had parked in the turning space re-appearred ( Thank God !) and having moved his car I was able to turn Wally round in the track, and drive out...Phew !! I decided the best thing to do was set up camp, and have a rest !! I found the campsite http://www.desdeasturias.com/alojamientos/campings/camping_naranjodebulnes/index.asp?loc=8 booked in, and settled down for a rest !! It was supposed to have been a gentle day !!