Hail ! The Conquering Hero !

Friday 15th October 2010

It had been a damp,rainy night, and as the alarm went off at 6-30 a.m….I kept snoozing,warm in my sleeping bag, however eventually I had to make a move, and having packed up Wally set off for Ichnadamph.. the base for my days adventure..but not before carefully negotiating my friend … 

who I had discovered the night before, sheltering under my wheels, and I had shifted.. it had obviously been too wet a night for him !

I arrived in Ichnadamph around 9-30 a.m.- a wild desolate place, home to the ‘splendid’ Ichnadamph Hotel, which looked more like it was closed than open!, and had over the years been the base for many geologists and explorers studying the region ..

It was a cloudy,desolate sky that greeted me, but, once decided,I wouldn’t change my mind… and I knew that a few showers were forecast for the morning, but later in the day it was due to be sunny ( I didn’t know then…how late in the day!)

My targets for the day were to be the two highest peaks, in the wild land of Assynt – Conival at 987 metres high, and Ben More Assynt at 998 metres – the highest peak in Sutherland ! – both of them being ‘Munros’

Off I set, a lonely figure.. no other cars on the car park, and no signs of anyone having already set off…this was to be the first ever Munro I had done for the first time, without my ace navigator (Susan) guiding ! and so I had learnt the route off by heart, bought a new large scale map, read numerous descriptions..and written the route down in fine detail…all would be needed by the end of the day.

As I went up the River valley toward my first top – Conival, I should have been able to see it – all I could see was cloud/mist shrouding it, and my route disappearing up and into it..Ah well, it’s going to be sunny later…’er the rain started after an hour or so, again this didn’t bother me, I had selected wet weather gear so carried on regardless.

As time wore on, and I got further up into the cloud, with a brisk wind at my back i wondered how the day would go, and would I be able to find my way if all I could go off was my map and compass! as I looked own the clouds didn’t seem to be lifting, in fact they threatened worse..

I was quite impressed at my navigation, as one by one I stumbled across the waypoints and intersections exactly as they should be, and at the right distances… although I did get a bit tired of counting my paces all the time, but, it was the only way to keep on track. I traced the ridge up to my first top Conival, and arrived there,around 1-30 p.m., to sunshine ? – No a stinging hailstorm battered at me, I could hardly see where I should be, and every time I looked into the wind I was peppered by hailstones, that felt like being sandblasted ! ( good for the complexion though!).

No time for lounging about though, nor pictures, as I started for the ‘big one’, which was around 1500 mts away, along a ‘knife edge’ ridge,which was shrouded in mist, although I could see the drops on either side! This is different ,thinks I, with the wind doing it’s best to blow me over the edge … ever upward and over, still counting my paces, with the hail easing up,to be replaced by rain! however, by 2-30 p.m., and after a couple of false tops, I managed to get to the summit, to be greeted ! Yes, by another, more fierce hailstorm, by now everything that was exposed was frozen, so it was a good job there was no one there to talk to ! But, Success…. now you know todays’ title!

I started back, retracing my route of earlier in the day to get back down, not long after starting back,well ! the rain and hail stopped, the mist cleared, and for once I was able to see my route down…however it didn’t last, it soon misted back over, but it couldn’t fool me, I knew where to go to get back down!

At the foot of the ridge I saw 2 other climbers, who were doing the same route..into the fierce wind.

I arrived at Conival for the second time that day, and again, was greeted by another hailstorm, more persistent than earlier, and peppering me continuously.

I hurried down, with the hail easing to rain as I dropped lower and lower, the rain was heavier and heavier as I carried on down into the valley, as I trudged down on my route back.

As I dropped into the valley I could hear, and see the Deer who were in the Rut, stags challenging other stags by bellowing, and in some cases I saw them butting each other with their horns. I’m sure not many see this at close quarters, at one stage I was on the path, with battles occurring on the hillside on each side of me , I could have watched for ever, but rain and cold defeated me, and I carried on my way.

Lower down as I neared Ichnadamph I saw that the ‘sun’ had finally arrived ! Not nearly early enough for me, I was soaked to the skin, freezing…and my boots had finally given up on me, and were awash with water..

I was then caught up by the other two climbers, and all three of us returned to the car park, and Wally’s heater was soon on full blast ! A successful and satisfying adventure !

Having stripped off my wet clothing, and got some dry clothes on, and warmed up slightly I went to Knockan crag for my spot for the night.. the stars were out, and so was I !

Once more…into the Mist Dear Friend !

Thursday 14th October 2010

Up bright and early, in my cheap campsite, at the foot of Stac Pollaidh. It was a bit of a damp, and dreary morning, so to brighten the day…I treated myself to eggs and soldiers…and what a delight it was ! although as usual when I stuck the bread in, the yolk came flying out over my clean trousers – although they would get dirtier before the end of the day !

So off I set around 9-30 a.m. just as a group of 3 French climbers arrived, and in my ‘excellent’ French gave some guidance…they were talking of scrambling and ropes – what was I doing on my own ? Undeterred I set off up a well made track from the car park, up towards the mountain which was completely covered in low lying mist…I was hoping for it to clear up soon.

   However, things weren’t looking too good,as I arrived at the Bealach, between the two tops I still couldn’t see very much, as the mist swirled around me,obscuring most things.

I decided I would climb the west top first, and so set off scrambling over the rock pinnacles,up and down and around, it was good fun, and I realised what the french meant about ropes then ,although a rope on your own isn’t much use! As I neared the western top my was was barred by a huge pinnacle of rock, reached across a deep gully, with a seemingly impossible climb (at  least without a rope!) and I decided to look,see and turn back…however I looked again, and decided it would be a shame to miss out on the top, and so went for it… and with a lot of pushing,pulling,gasping and divine help…I made, squirming through a rocky corner,and up onto the top of the barring pinnacle, and out onto the top..brilliant ! Now I only had to get back down and through again..which as you may guess I made a lot easier than coming up.

I then set off across the ridge pinnacles, for the eastern Top, which I reached relatively easily, and just as I was doing so, the mist lifted giving views all around ! 

Well, that’s a bit of a pain,I thought, and quickly decided to do the Western top again, so that I could get the best views out to sea! I promptly set off again traversing the ridge, up and down the pinnacles towards my goal…however, as I was reaching the Western top…the mist came down again, and as I squirmed my way up the route again, I was confronted by a misty top..again. So, I did what anyone would do – I sat down, got my butties out, and thought ‘I’m not going till the mist does !’ Thankfully after about 10 minutes it cleared again, and I was able to get views all around me - it was worth the extra climb.

And, after getting my fill of the views, I climbed back down, across the rocky ridge, and back to Wally, for a mug of Minestrone soup, and time to plan my next days adventures, and as it was such a good spot decided to stay where I was, and travel to my next destination early in the morning..

Crash,Bang,Wallop !

Wednesday 13th October 2010

A good nights sleep in the pitch dark area of the Carbisdale Forest, and having rose early I set off before 9, firstly for nearby Bike trails in Balblair Forest, which I arrived at before 10 o’clock, and quickly changing set off on the ‘blue run’ for a ‘warm up’, I must be getting used to the Scottish trails as I had done this one within 30 minutes of arriving, even following the painted arrows across,and down the rock slabs again!

I then decided to do the harder route, graded ‘Black’ severe, for bikers ‘up for a challenge’ ! which I followed,mostly ,up the hill, and around the top viewpoint,looking over the Loch below.. and then the real fun (if you can call it that),started, whistling down the hillside on some very technical features,Rock hard and Candy Mountain,most of which I managed,crossing long stretches of planking set well above the ground,and hurtling downwards I felt like a teenager again ( I know, not long ago!) and just as I neared the bottom, on a relatively easy section…Craaaash !!down I went, however, managed not to injure myself too much, and carried on regardless..finishing off on the Ceilidh trail, and time for a rest…phew!

But, not before posing for another snap !

Then it was off on the Road towards the mountains, still waiting to be climbed. En route I called in at the Falls of Shin, where you could see Salmon leaping up the waterfalls,on their way back to their birthplace  ..brilliant, I saw 2 salmon jumping, not sure if they made it, but they beat the camera ! Imagine having to jump up there, having already swum up lots of other waterfalls!

I carried on towards Lochinver, calling in at Rosehay forest, where there was the Sikha bike trail, but, as it was raining I decided to give it a miss, and continue… I arrived at Ichnadamph, where you could hear the Deer stags ‘roaring’ on the hillside (impressing the women!) and continues to Lochinver, where I arrived mid afternoon, calling in at the tourist office, for a new map, and weather forecast ( looking good), and carried on to the car park at the foot of Stac Poilladh, however arriving there nearly 5p.m. meant I had to settle down for the night, to climb it tomorrow !

It Would be Rude Not to !

Tuesday 12th October 2010

I set off from the Rosemarkie, and the Black Isle before 9-30 a.m. and headed straight to the 'Internet ‘hot spot’ in Inverness to update everyone on my plans…so by half twelve I was ready to set off again, my intentions being to go West and hit the mountains…

I decided to go a differing way ,and so went on the road to Lairg, via Bonar Bridge ,happily going over the Cromarty Firth,Muir of Ord and top end of the Dornoch Firth/estuary…however as I reached Ardgay, I saw signs for a Bike trail off to the left …hmm, I thought wonder which that one is, and so, consulting my book found that I was near to Carbisdale Forest, with it’s very isolated bike trails, well, what should I do ? Continue to the mountains, or do more bike trails – the bike trails won !(Well,it would be rude not to !)

I turned off the road, and went along a small narrow road for 4 miles, ending up at Culrain,(where there was a battle in 1650 !), and parked in Carbisdale Forest, just down the road from Carbisdale Youth Hostel , which as you can see is more like a castle – apparently the ‘most splendid’ in Britain ! (and no, I didn’t sample it – I’m only a pensioner!)

I firstly set off on a quite reasonable ‘blue’ graded trail, and soon polished that one off, so returned to the trails to do the higher graded ‘Red’ trail – again good fun, with big Rocks - which had painted arrows over the rocks showing you which way to tackle them ! screech..made them all.

Lots of features including Hissing Sid,Goldie Rocks, Wood cutter,Fairy trail!,Little Red Riding wood..and finally What big teeth !

During my time there was chatting to a lad from Devon, doing simil ar things to me –sleeping in a van outside the hostel – cheeky! So, by the time I’d finished all the trails (twice,at least) I decided time was against me, and because I had such a good place… I stayed where I was and settled for the night …to a ‘hot’ prawn curry and Nans ! followed by listening to the England V Montenegro debacle on the radio – Rubbish! Good night.

There goes another one…

Monday 11th October 2010

I awoke to a heavy overnight dampness and dew, but thankfully still no rain..so I decided to go out along the bay to Chanonry point ( again) for some Dolphin spotting..and wow, what sights there were… even before I’d got to the point I’d seen lots of differing groups of Dolphins coming in from the sea, into the bay, obviously feeding ( I’m an expert now!)…

As I reached the point, there were lots of people there, all watching… http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/rosemarkie/chanonrypoint/

the Dolphins,swimming around the bay, feeding and having ‘fun’ jumping over each other, and swimming round a number of seals in the area…It was a delight to watch, although cold, as the wind whipping off the sea was ‘raw’ and cold..

I stayed about 90 minutes, watching the Dolphins going back out to sea, with a ‘Dolphin watching’ boat following them, at which point they all started circling it,and what looked like ‘performing’ for the boats occupants !

I returned to Wally for a light lunch, and more paper reading!

Later on I had a walk to nearby Fortrose, a nice old town, with the remains of it’s 12C Cathedral http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/fortrose/fortrosecathedral/index.html, next to the Catholic Church of St Peter and St Boniface,http://www.fortrosemarkie.org/fortrose.htm which was open for prayer- nothing locked away, a pleasant and peaceful sight…

I then returned to Wally in late evening sun, to make my plans for a return to the West Coast, for better weather, and to do some Mountain climbing…no more seaside for a while !

I may be out of touch for a few days..the lure of the hills!

An Auspicious Day…?

Sunday 10th October 2010

I awoke to a howling wind, and overcast sky..whilst the rest of Scotland (and Britain) was basking in late summer sunshine..Undeterred I got the bike out and set off for ‘Learnie Red Rocks’ bike trail centre, about 4 miles and 250mts climb up the road from where i was staying…which was certainly a good ‘warm up’ for me !

No photos today…I had my new mini ‘video camera’ from Kate and Wayne on my head…and haven’t yet figured out how to edit them down for the blog…but you’ll all be able to watch in the future….

As I went through the village of Rosemarkie I was able to order my Sunday paper,to collect later…

Once I got to the trails,http://www.forestry.gov.uk/forestry/INFD-6NZE9W I warmed up on some dirt jumps in the parking area, and suitably confident went off into the forest ready for my first challenge of the day- Riding the Divide !-…up the 1125mts  of the Muirhead climb,out across the road, and straight onto the Firth View route of 2175mts…at the top of which I had a great view over the Cromarty and Moray Firths below,and by now the sun was out, although the wind was still blowing !

I then descended to the Callachy Downhill route, 1255mts of fun,rocky track which switched and swung all down the hill…at the bottom of which I found the Callachy Hill climb,1450 mts climb, back up to the downhill route, and down again…swoosh, I was ready for my lunch….Roast Beef sandwiches, and 2 bananas…and a chat to a bloke and his daughter, who like me were making their was round differing Bike trails..

After lunch, although slightly ‘tired’…i did it all again, with a continuous film of me descending all the way from the top, down the trails, including a skills area, and finishing on the big dirt jump at the end…

I then coasted down the road,back to the campsite, collecting my paper on the way…and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening reading papers, relaxing  and Spaghetti Bolognese (without spaghetti ! – penne instead!)..and to bed…

Whoops !

Saturday 9th October 2010

I was up early from Ardcharnich, and set off towards Inverness, not really sure whether to go there, or to divert left towards Dingwall… however as i travelled neraer to Inverness I decided I would fill up (food and fuel) in the town, do a bit of t’internet, and move out to the ‘Black Isle’ jutting out into the Cromarty Firth, and do some more Dolphin watching/spotting, and mountain biking at Red Rocks…so there we are – the plan was made !

As I drove into Inverness in the early morning, there was a great Red sunrise

and I thought I’d made the right move !

I firstly stayed near Kessock Bridge, on the opposite side of the Beauly Firth from where me and Kate had previously stood ‘Dolphin spotting’, and at the same time managed to update my blog from a ‘hot spot’ nearby…by late morning I had still not seen any Dolphins, (but the weather was lovely warm Sunshine) and so decided to move out to the ‘Black Isle’- and my campsite, that I had booked by telephone earlier.

En route I drove to ‘Learnie Red Rocks’ and checked out the bike trails there, intending to go there on Sunday.

Having settled down at the Rosemarkie CCC camp sitehttp://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/siteseeker/aspx/details.aspx?id=8150(getting my ‘age reduction again!) I wandered along the side of the Cromarty Firth towards, and at Chanonry Point (the favoured Dolphin spotting area)- although I did wonder whether I was on the right side of the country, as the wind was really strong and gusting coming off the water,cooling everything…and a fellow camper said ‘It’s beautiful today in the West ‘!! Ooops should I have stayed there ?- and I’d booked in for 3 nights…

I did see some Dolphins well out in the bay, along with some seals, but very distant, so just had to settle for a long walk around the bay and back, for an early dinner, showers and clean down !

The wind continued to gust stronger…

Lochs and Lochs of Mountains

Friday 8th October 2010

I was up with the lark, bright and early to a beautiful new day, and ready to continue with my journey, down the West Coast of Scotland,again taking advantage of the good weather to continue my travels, and get all the sights, and phew ! what a day I was going to have!..

As I looked out at the view beneath me… I couldn’t see any buildings anywhere, just hearing all the animals, and watching a bird of prey (don’t know what !) circling the area, looking for it’s Breakfast..as I had my own Breakfast of fruit juice and Weetabix..and off I set from Kylestrome

towards the Big Mountains of Assynt…

I firstly crossed Loch Assynt, coming across the remains of Ardvreck Castle,and had to have a wander around,and inside it..the views out and along the Loch were tremendous, especially in the Sunshine ,with only some German and French tourists for company.

I then continued South, through Ichnadamph, with the bulk of Suilven in the distance.

By mid morning I stopped at a place I had heard referred to in several places – Knockan Crag ,http://www.knockan-crag.co.uk/ and what a place to stop.. it was the exact location where geologists had first worked out how the various countries in the World had been made, and come together ( and apart) and it had a brilliant ‘Earth Room’ to explain everything ( in a fun way! ) to those aspiring geologists amongst us –and that means ME !

With this wall,identifying all and showing all the differing rocks, at least I’ll have something to refer back to now….

and one of those surprising revelations …..

Scotland really is different from England…

and don’t the Scots love that, especially as those from America could really have been their neighbours !

As I went on the discovery trail along the crag, and up to the top the views of Assynt really opened up, with lots and lots of future climbing becoming evident..and fast jets (Wayne ?) flying overhead, and sometimes almost underfoot as they hugged the valley floor, roaring in,round,and gone..

I then continued South,along a good Road,into the sunshine ahead.As I went through the Cromalt Hills I decided to divert out right onto the Coigagh peninsula,and drove along a narrow single track road to Aciltibuie, looking out onto the Summer Isles from a different direction to yesterday. The sky was hard to describe, it seemed hazy, or ethereal, as the sun shone down through the clouds, almost floodlighting the Islands in  the bay , and yet it was sunny !

On this peninsula was Stac Pollaidh (Stack Polly) almost looking like it should be in Texas ! and looking great in the afternoon sunshine.

As I continued towards Ullapool I wondered what I would find…as both Kate and Wayne had spoken so well of it…I arrived just as the large car ferry from Stornoway was berthing, and loads of traffic was coming off, and being loaded back on…probably making Ullapool far busier (and noisy) than usual..   the only campsite in town was shut, so after having a wander round for a while, and with the rain starting whilst I was eating my Fish supper from the ‘Best Seafood Pub in Britain’'  ,  I decided I may be better off on the East coast again , so set off towards Inverness , on the wide A9 road, intending to stop on the way somewhere.

I found a great spot in Ardcharnich, mid way to Inverness, at a car park next to some walks, which had Toilets next to it (and Open all night –almost ensuite!) and snoozed Peacefully..