We’re All Home !

Monday 25th October 2010

It was a cold ,frosty night in Glencoe, and I awoke very early for the trip home…although not as early as the big feller, for as I was awakening in Scotland, big brother should have been landing in Manchester from Calgary, Canada…. Welcome home Sean !

I was on the road by 9 a.m., into a blistering sun, with frozen fields all around, and as you can see, there were some pretty special views on the way, looking back into Glencoe, with the moon still out !

So, there it was, by early afternoon I was through Glasgow, and back into sunny England…and managed to get to Sainsburys by 3-40 p.m. ! A few essentials, and I was on the way, landing home just before 5 p.m., phew what a journey and what a trip, Scotland in the Autumn has been brilliant !

I travelled 2,219 miles, took 1,161 pictures, and spent very little !

All that remains now…

 

is to do the washing, and…

  open the post !

 

 

 

Hope you’ve enjoyed the journey,

so until the next time !

Stay safe, and keep having fun, we will !

Red in the morning – papers warning..

Sunday 24th October 2010

I awoke this morning to a heavy frost outside, and a red sky as the dawn broke (just before 8 a.m.), it was to be another beautiful day from the looks of it, I happily lay in bed, looking out the window at the view- not quite the same as home!

I was up by early morning, reading some of yesterdays papers, breakfasting, and then out by 10 a.m. ready for a walk to Ballachulish, 2 miles or so distant for 11 a.m. Mass at St Muns Church,http://www.rcdai.org.uk/pages/Parish-List.html it was freezing cold, but my brisk pace soon had me warmed up, in fact by the time I got there I was boiling, and very hot .

As seems to be usual for Scotland, the priest was obviously recently new to the Parish, coming from I suspect India, or even Australia ! and with his good humour the 1 1/4 hours mass didn’t seem that long !- you certainly get your money’s worth here !

I then returned to Glencoe village, for chocolate cake and hot chocolate with marshmallows and cream !at Crafts and thingshttp://www.craftsandthings.co.uk/, which I’d visited many times in the past, and then collecting a Sunday newspaper and returned to Wally…. to spend the rest of the day reading them !

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It was a day to relax, before the long journey home tomorrow !…but, should I return, especially if the weather continues like this ?

Can this be the End ?

Saturday 23rd October 2010

I awoke to clear blue skies,     and could see a gentle dusting of snow on the lower hills, what a difference from yesterday !

Perhaps I should have waited a day ?

After  a leisurely breakfast, and packing up I left Glen Nevis and headed for the Nevis Ski Gondola, where the famous ‘Witches trails’ bike routes were http://www.ridefortwilliam.co.uk/trailsdb.asp?trailId=1– I had decided on a last day of activity before starting my journey home…

I started with the gentle blue ‘Broomstick trail’ which plunged down the hill, and sadly back up again..warming me up nicely for the ‘World Champs’ red route…I was ready, and off I zoomed through the forest, up along boardwalks, and jumping over rocks, it felt a lot harder today, than previous, perhaps my legs were still feeling the effects of yesterday!

Undaunted I continued around the trail, at some quite fast speeds (downhill !), until eventually I roared back into the car park, for some much needed grub !

Having tanked up, I was ready for the next one ‘10 Under the Ben’ and as I got to the start gate ! shock, horror – it had been closed, which was a pity as I’d decided to do it…so what did I do.. I tried to catch a gondola for the ‘red downhill route’ –closed for the season ! I went back to the only other red route available, the ‘World Champs’ again, only this time I went on a higher, more tortuous route, my legs screaming at me to take a rest… and whilst taking a short break and photo stop found that I had gone grey ! 

It must be the moisture (sweat) gathering on my locks, and shining in the afternoon sun !

Again I swooped down the trail, over new and old obstacles, managing to jump many that I’d not dared before – well it was my last day!, until eventually collapsing into the car park !

Its all over now…or is it ??

I then travelled into Glencoe, where I had booked into the campsite for 2 nights, intending to visit the world famous ‘Clachaig Inn’ for beer,food and music..

I walked from the campsite, the couple of miles along the pitch dark A82 to the Clachaig, http://www.clachaig.com/p/v/whats-on/october/to find an Autumn Beer Festival in full swing, and the place was heaving..

I managed to get a seat between 2 couples, who didn’t quite know what to make of this sweating hulk who’d just landed between them – it being roasting in the pub,compared to my freezing cold journey there..

It was a good night, with a hot beef chilli and Nachos for my evening meal, washed down with a few!  pints of Beinn Dearg http://www.camra.org.uk/page.aspx?o=corrections2010beer, along with a rousing Celtic group form Dundee, who finished the night with the rousing and  obligatory ‘Loch Lomond’ and ‘Flowers of Scotland’ with people standing on chairs,tables and anyone else !

I then accompanied by the starry twinkling sky, returned to the campsite, and the warmth of Wally ( I’d left the heater on),  for a good nights kip !

Snow Excuses, it’s Ben Done!

Friday 22nd October 2010

I awoke in Glen Nevis campsitehttp://www.glen-nevis.co.uk/index.php?id=13 shortly before 6-30 a.m to the sound of rain spattering down on top of the roof, hmm, will it clear I wondered ? and lay there a short time wondering whether to venture out into the torrent from above !

After a time deciding, and the rain not getting better, or worse (where have I heard that before ?) I decided to just put my heavy rain gear on, and ‘go for it’ ventures upon the highest mountain in Great Britain are not supposed to be easy !http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Nevis

So after a large breakfast of 2 mugs tea,2 Weetabix, and a banana…and good wishes from Wally the duck I put all my raingear, and ventured out into the torrential rain, if anything it seemed even worse – I suppose it would be when you’re out in it !

It was shortly before 8-30 a.m. as I trudged out of the campsite, along Glen Nevis, to the Youth Hostel, and crossed the River Nevis, and started my ever upward climb.

Everything was packed inside my Rucksack, beneath a rain cover, so,today would not be a day for pictures !

Immediately I passed a notice ‘ Have you told anyone where you’re going and you’re route ?’ No, says I defiantly, although any readers of this would know where I was !

I made quite good speed climbing out of the Glen, and into the low lying mist, or cloud ? I’m not sure which, either way it was still bouncing with rain..

There was no one in sight ,above or below, as I gained height crossing the ‘Red Burn’ a sight that many times in the past had been a deciding point in continuing upward or returning home…although that had always been in Winter conditions, and it was hardly that today, although the rain was coming down quite cold at times.

I tramped around the zig zags of the path, ever upward, and into the cloud and rain above, no views were to be had, it was just a day for ‘doing it’, as that’s what I had decided to do ..

Eventually around 10-30 a.m. I saw some people coming down the track towards me, they must have been up early I thought – they had, they said, setting off at 7-30 a.m., even so  said they’d done well getting to the top and back already…ah no, they’d turned back leaving the rest of their party still climbing, and they descended into the mist.

I continued into the cloud, and rain which by now had turned into an icy sleet/rain,building up on the path, although mainly just slushy and wet.

Around 11-40a.m. I saw three further people,descending towards me out of the mist, they told me it was their ‘first of the day’- they were climbing the ‘3 Peaks Challenge’ of Ben Nevis (highest Scotland), Scafell Pike (highest England), and Snowdon (highest Wales), all within 24 hours ! Not for me, Thank You, I wished them luck and off they went.

The final part of the climb, I was accompanied by snow,hail, high winds,mist, but most importantly…cairns which now are placed across the summit plateau guiding people to the summit (and back again!), saves having to navigate…

I arrived at the top around 11-50 a.m., to find the remainder of the 7-30 group just starting their descent, comical really, lots of young people shouting ‘Well Done’ to me ! I don’t look that decrepit do I ?   I didn’t tell them I’d started an hour after them !

I then had the summit of the highest mountain in Britain, Ben Nevis, all to myself, and became quite emotional, not sure why, but managed to get a couple of ‘wonky pictures, as everything - fingers,me,camera froze up in the biting wind and snow.. and I obviously couldn’t get the angles right – I was standing on the small summit cairn though as the howling wind cut across the plateau..

I didn’t stop for anything to eat, and rapidly turned about and ran off the top, hoping to generate enough heat to stop me freezing any more…I can still feel the frozen fingertips,even as I write this!

Descending down the mountain, initially I couldn’t see anyone, so I thought I may be the ‘last of the day’ and no one else may be climbing, how wrong I would be ! After about half an hour I started seeing a steady trickle of people, ascending up the path towards me – there’s nothing more warming than seeing others suffering ! and I happily continued down. By this time the rain/snow had stopped, and when the wind increased speed it blew the clouds away, intermittently, and I got views down the valley and could see the snake of people toiling there way up the mountain…

English,Irish,Scottish, German,Dutch,French,Pakistani – the United Nations !

It was a pleasure to greet them all!

I arrived back at Glen Nevis camp site, just as the rain was starting again,and after the obligatory photo.. 

stripped off all my wet gear,soaked in a red hot shower, for ages, and returned to Wally looking very debonair !

 

 

 

 

 

I’m going to treat myself to a meal out..if I can brave the ,by now, torrential rain !http://www.glen-nevis.co.uk/glen-nevis-restaurant-near-fort-william-for-good-food.html

Aiming for the Top of Britain !!

Thursday 21st October 2010

After a wild and windy night, I awoke (leisurely) to a very wet,misty Torridon – which didn’t matter too much, I’d already decided to move..

I then set off, and travelled to Fort William, by passing Skye, the poor weather wouldn’t have made it much fun, and the forecast remains poor for the next few days.

I’m now sat in Fort William, at the Caledonian Canal Locks at Banavie – using the marina wifi connection !

I’ll get some shopping in this afternoon, including ,hopefully new boots, and do Ben Nevis tomorrow, if the weather is half decent…

Then ,it’s all downhill…towards home, as ‘Big Daddy’ is coming home from Canada for a visit…and I need to be around !!

Watch out…there’s snow about !!

Wednesday 20th October 2010

Shiveringly cold I awoke just before 7, to a bright, although foreboding day.. Kate had rang me with the weather forecast the night before, and I was expecting a bad afternoon ahead.

I was greeted with a pale blue sky, and obviously there had been a lot of overnight snow on the mountains. 

and the prospect of plenty more to come, so having prepared everything the night before I quickly breakfasted ( 2 Weetabix today!) and set off for the hills, intending to climb up onto Beinn Eighe, and do as many of the tops as would be reasonable. I had not been going long when the first of the days snow/hail storms blew in…stinging my face (delicate skin!) ,but I knew the path well, and continued towards the first of the days objectives Coire Mhic Fheachur, a black gloomy lake, with the famous ‘Triple Buttress’ cliffs at the back of it.

It was almost 11 a.m. by the time I got here, ready for the first big climb of the day, up a gully in the far corner of the rocks, and even as I approached from a distance, I could see that it was deep with snow, which got even worse as another wet snow storm blew in, quickly filling everything in its path ,this is what it did to my pack in the few minutes it took me to put more gear on !

I then traversed over a boulder field, having to work out my own route up,any path having been obliterated by the snow, on and up I went, slipping and sliding, with the snow battering at my back.  I finally managed to break out onto the summit ridge, into the teeth of the raging storm, however, nothing would stop me reaching the summit now, even though I knew even worse weather was forecast for around now !

I trudged along the summit ridge, eventually reaching the summit of Rhud Stac Mhor, the highest top of Beinn Eighe, and a glorious achievement, although the views weren’t up to much ! none the less success !

I swiftly turned around and reversed my route back along the summit ridge, back to the top of the gully I had climbed earlier, and without much ado ,plunged straight over the top, and down the snow filled gully, slipping and plunging ever more downwards to the coire floor below.. the gully is in the corner..

 

Having got back to the valley floor, I felt able to relax, although I had still 2 hours of walking back to Wally, and the blizzards forecast along with 60 mph winds ! Bliss !throw anything at me, I can deal with it…and so, a blizzards of hailstone came in, being drilled into my face, and I had to continue looking into it to see my route home …thankfully it eased after about 10 minutes ,and I was able to skip my way back to Wally…relief  and a nice cup of tea, just as more rain and hail landed, and the winds seemed to be getting stronger, but what did I care…I’d already cooked my bolognese the night before !!

It’s grim up North !

Tuesday 19th October 2010

The weather has still not improved, with a poor forecast for all week in Poolewe…

So, I’m heading into the hills again, for more fun.

I’m going to Torridon, for a couple of days.

I may then go onto Skye for a couple of days,

and then start wending my was homewards,via Fort William, Ben Nevis and Glencoe…all dependent on weather, and my leaky boots !!

I probably won’t be able to update for a few days….

So, Keep smiling and having fun ! (I will)

Edited later….

when I left Poolewe campsite, I drove to the head of the peninsula surrounding Loch Ewe, to the old wartime gun installations, and lookout posts.. the convoys that were sent to relieve Russia, were assembled here, and many set out …never to return, it’s a wild and windy place now, so goodness knows what those young servicemen and women found it to be in the 1940 ‘s

 

 

I managed to look from a distance at the old gun installations, and remains of the lookout posts..

 

and when I returned down the hillside, I found Wally …had been collecting the sheep, ready for ‘tuppin ! (If you don’t know….don’t ask)

she always liked sheep !

From there I returned along the peninsula, to a sandy deserted ( but windswept) beach, must be nice on a warm day (whenever that is) , ominously I could already see in the distance the mountain tops, covered in snow !

I travelled around the coast, alongside Loch Maree, where I could see the imposing bulk of Slioch, brooding at the top of the Loch , not this time I said !

and drove into Torridon itself, where I’d been many times before, and as usual it didn’t dissapoint…cold, wet,windy, and totally inhospitable - Welcome back !

and a nice climbers car park for us to stay on…with the wind howling, and hailstones battering Wally all night !

Miserable Monday Morning..

Monday 17th October 2010

I awoke,late, to a wet and windy Monday morning, so treated myself to reading the papers, and a bacon and egg butty ! luvverly.

The day didn’t improve much, with thunder and lightning late morning, then a clearing sky, but still strong blustery winds coming in off the sea.

I resolved to do nothing ! – apart from planning my next moves…where/what to do/go next ?

On a cheerier aspect ,my meal the previous evening at the Poolewe Hotel was so good, and reasonably priced, that I’m going back tonight..luxury !

Birthday Memories….

Sunday 17th October 2010

What a way to start someone’s Birthday celebrations .. white rather than Red wine !! Happy Birthday Susan, she would have been 53 today, oh how those years have flown by, I can still remember the first Birthday that I knew her in 1988 – she crashed her car..and I had to rescue her… and have been ever since !

Fr John said the 9-30 a.m. Mass at New Mills for her,which I joined with them in Spirit - for which I am very grateful. A friend had also placed flowers from her garden at Church on her grave, Thank You.

Today in Poolewe it was wet,wild, and gloomy…I couldn’t even get out for the paper, ah well, I’ll have to read Saturdays !

Eventually it started to dry up, and having got washed and dressed I set out for 2-30 p.m. Mass at Gairloch Community Centre, coincidentally, one which Susan and I had attended when climbing in Torridon years earlier,although when I got there it was only a Eucharistic Service, none the less worth the effort- although there were only 8 people present! Afterwards I had a pleasant tea and cakes with a chap who’s wife was the organist, and whom I remember talking to many years ago,whilst Susan had chatted to his wife.

I then had a look around the headland towards Melvaig, and saw, shining on the sea…. Quite a sight, and one to stir many happy memories.

I then called in at the Mountain Madness cafe in Gairloch, and had a whopping slice of Lemon Meringue (Birthday Cake !) and a Latte..

…and now, I’m doing what anyone does on a Birthday…going to the Pub to celebrate with slap up (as near as one gets in Poolewe !) meal and a drink… I may need a lie in tomorrow !

Sweet dreams

And on a lighter note…a welcome to the latest member of the family…

who’s name is ????

Answers to usual address…

Who loves ya Baby !

Sublime to the Ridiculous !

Saturday 16th October 2010

Well, I woke up to a lovely daybreak from my secluded accommodation at Knockan Crag

What a start to the day, it looked to be a good day ahead, how long will it continue I wondered ? –still if it gets bad….I can always go home !

I had a relaxed leisurely start, having decided where I was to stay tonight, so knew i didn’t have to rush, and so made good use of the onsite facilities!(toilet!),and after many more photos of the views..

 

 

 

 

 

I set off, travelling firstly to Ullapool, where I helped a chap to start his car – which had had its lights on for 4 days,whilst on the islands!-filled the food locker, although not much of a selection (at Tesco’s finest!) filled up with fuel, and set off along the road…

I firstly called in at The Corieshalloch Gorge, a deep chasm in the rocks,with spectacular waterfalls..unfortunately it was locked ! The site had been closed by Natural Scotland, and all access was locked and barred …a pity for me, and several other travellers who continued to turn up whilst I was there.

Continuing I headed West of the A832 along Little Loch Broom on my right, and the mighty bulk of An Teallach,3484 mts on my left..great views, and very little traffic.

As I swung around the coast above Gruinard Bay, looking down I could see something on the rocks, and so stopping and looking more closely I realised there was a great colony of seals…basking (or wallowing) on the rocks,as the sea lapped up and around them 

This is the only picture I could get of them as my battery finally ran out..and I couldn’t find the spare..

 

 

I continued around the bay and into Poolewe, to the Camping and Caravan Club site there…where, as it was the staffs ‘day off’ (what a day to have off – the busiest!), I sorted out my place,and worked out what was available..http://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/siteseeker/aspx/details.aspx?id=7140

I settled down in the afternoon sunshine washing everything—me included, and relaxed in shorts,t shirt and sandals..what a life !

I anxiously awaited the evening sunset, which because of the location I thought would be good..unfortunately it clouded over just before ,and although there were a few red spots,not as good as I had hoped for..

 

 

 

 

 

and finally….what’s this all about ???

Answers to the usual address !!!

Sleep tight, nighty night !

Hail ! The Conquering Hero !

Friday 15th October 2010

It had been a damp,rainy night, and as the alarm went off at 6-30 a.m….I kept snoozing,warm in my sleeping bag, however eventually I had to make a move, and having packed up Wally set off for Ichnadamph.. the base for my days adventure..but not before carefully negotiating my friend … 

who I had discovered the night before, sheltering under my wheels, and I had shifted.. it had obviously been too wet a night for him !

I arrived in Ichnadamph around 9-30 a.m.- a wild desolate place, home to the ‘splendid’ Ichnadamph Hotel, which looked more like it was closed than open!, and had over the years been the base for many geologists and explorers studying the region ..

It was a cloudy,desolate sky that greeted me, but, once decided,I wouldn’t change my mind… and I knew that a few showers were forecast for the morning, but later in the day it was due to be sunny ( I didn’t know then…how late in the day!)

My targets for the day were to be the two highest peaks, in the wild land of Assynt – Conival at 987 metres high, and Ben More Assynt at 998 metres – the highest peak in Sutherland ! – both of them being ‘Munros’

Off I set, a lonely figure.. no other cars on the car park, and no signs of anyone having already set off…this was to be the first ever Munro I had done for the first time, without my ace navigator (Susan) guiding ! and so I had learnt the route off by heart, bought a new large scale map, read numerous descriptions..and written the route down in fine detail…all would be needed by the end of the day.

As I went up the River valley toward my first top – Conival, I should have been able to see it – all I could see was cloud/mist shrouding it, and my route disappearing up and into it..Ah well, it’s going to be sunny later…’er the rain started after an hour or so, again this didn’t bother me, I had selected wet weather gear so carried on regardless.

As time wore on, and I got further up into the cloud, with a brisk wind at my back i wondered how the day would go, and would I be able to find my way if all I could go off was my map and compass! as I looked own the clouds didn’t seem to be lifting, in fact they threatened worse..

I was quite impressed at my navigation, as one by one I stumbled across the waypoints and intersections exactly as they should be, and at the right distances… although I did get a bit tired of counting my paces all the time, but, it was the only way to keep on track. I traced the ridge up to my first top Conival, and arrived there,around 1-30 p.m., to sunshine ? – No a stinging hailstorm battered at me, I could hardly see where I should be, and every time I looked into the wind I was peppered by hailstones, that felt like being sandblasted ! ( good for the complexion though!).

No time for lounging about though, nor pictures, as I started for the ‘big one’, which was around 1500 mts away, along a ‘knife edge’ ridge,which was shrouded in mist, although I could see the drops on either side! This is different ,thinks I, with the wind doing it’s best to blow me over the edge … ever upward and over, still counting my paces, with the hail easing up,to be replaced by rain! however, by 2-30 p.m., and after a couple of false tops, I managed to get to the summit, to be greeted ! Yes, by another, more fierce hailstorm, by now everything that was exposed was frozen, so it was a good job there was no one there to talk to ! But, Success…. now you know todays’ title!

I started back, retracing my route of earlier in the day to get back down, not long after starting back,well ! the rain and hail stopped, the mist cleared, and for once I was able to see my route down…however it didn’t last, it soon misted back over, but it couldn’t fool me, I knew where to go to get back down!

At the foot of the ridge I saw 2 other climbers, who were doing the same route..into the fierce wind.

I arrived at Conival for the second time that day, and again, was greeted by another hailstorm, more persistent than earlier, and peppering me continuously.

I hurried down, with the hail easing to rain as I dropped lower and lower, the rain was heavier and heavier as I carried on down into the valley, as I trudged down on my route back.

As I dropped into the valley I could hear, and see the Deer who were in the Rut, stags challenging other stags by bellowing, and in some cases I saw them butting each other with their horns. I’m sure not many see this at close quarters, at one stage I was on the path, with battles occurring on the hillside on each side of me , I could have watched for ever, but rain and cold defeated me, and I carried on my way.

Lower down as I neared Ichnadamph I saw that the ‘sun’ had finally arrived ! Not nearly early enough for me, I was soaked to the skin, freezing…and my boots had finally given up on me, and were awash with water..

I was then caught up by the other two climbers, and all three of us returned to the car park, and Wally’s heater was soon on full blast ! A successful and satisfying adventure !

Having stripped off my wet clothing, and got some dry clothes on, and warmed up slightly I went to Knockan crag for my spot for the night.. the stars were out, and so was I !